DESTINATIONS

The Insiders' Gulf of Cariaco
 

by Diane St.-Hilaire and Claude Bérubé

We didn't find much information on the Gulf of Cariaco before our first Venezuelan cruise, and we wrote this in the hope that fellow boaters will discover and enjoy this area as we did.

Laguna Grande
Many sailboat captains agree that Laguna Grande, at the entrance to the Gulf of Cariaco, is one of the finest anchorages they have visited in the entire Caribbean. Chris Doyle and Jeff Fisher, in their excellent and useful guide to Venezuela say, "This colossal bay is breathtakingly beautiful with an endless variety of contrasting hills in white and glowing reds. It is a timeless desert landscape, outstandingly colorful and decorative. It must rate high among the Caribbean's hidden treasures and only a few people stop by."

Arriving at the entrance of Laguna Grande, between two gray hills, we suddenly saw the multicolored landscape of mountains that surround this giant bay and its many small snug coves. We visited all of them before choosing the perfect anchorage. What spectacular sightseeing! As we could anchor anywhere, we chose a lonely site, in 21 feet of water, where we had a panoramic view of the astonishing mountains, and where we were well ventilated against flying insects. We saw three American boats in one cove, two English in another, and four French boats in a third.

We had planned to stop there for only one day, but we stayed three days to videotape the most beautiful sights. The sunrise and sunset pictures are real masterpieces. Every moment brings a new scene under the varying shades of light, with glowing reds, grays, blacks and some spots of green vegetation. It looks like the desert decor of a western movie, with cactus and palo verde. Mangroves cling to the shore. The dryness of the ground tells us that there is little rain here. Strong winds pick up in the afternoon.

The only inhabitants are pelicans, frigate birds, a few iguanas, bees and bugs, eagles and goats. The water is painted a pretty but milky green. You can see through it in some spots, and some visitors found coquilles St.-Jacques (scallops) and conchas (an oval shell with a tasty red meat.

It was not easy to climb the mountains, but it allowed us to discover some rocky woods, and many kinds of rocks with layers by which you can count millions of years. Travelling all around the bay is a fun trip to enjoy with the dinghy. Laguna Grande must absolutely be seen as the wonderful beginning of a journey in the Gulf of Cariaco. But let's backtrack for a moment to put it in perspective.

Margarita to the Gulf of Cariaco
Only a few days prior to immersing ourselves in this wonderland, we had been in Porlamar, Margarita, upset with the constant watch against robbers and horrified by an act of piracy that happened in nearby Coche. A deep feeling of insecurity had invaded us. So we decided to leave there for a stay in the Gulf of Cariaco, well known for its secure atmosphere. The "Golfo", 35 miles long and 8 miles wide, is full of quiet anchorages and small fishing settlements to stop by and visit. You can imagine how we looked forward to not lifting the dinghy every night, and not becoming fearful whenever a fisherman's boat came by.

Leaving our interim stop of Cubagua at 6AM, we were at the entrance around 11AM, well before the strong winds of the afternoon pick up in this part of the Gulf. We stayed over a month in the Gulf of Cariaco, but it could have been longer. We stopped first in Puerto Real, a nice, well-protected anchorage close to a picturesque fishing village, located one mile east of Merito. Next was the fantastic Laguna Grande. For security reasons, we didn't anchor in the front of the peninsula of Araya or the city of Cumaná (although we heard that Marina Cumanagoto is secure).

Medregal-Village Hotel
Then, as many boaters do, we anchored in front of Medregal-Village Hotel, built by a Belgian-Frenchman, Jean-Marc Plessy, and his Venezuelan mate, Yoleida. They make you so welcome there that the stay is wonderful. Boaters can use - free - all the hotel facilities, including the huge swimming pool. The anchorage is in good holding, well protected in 15 feet, and there are two dinghy docks, one at each end of the area. Once a week, sometimes twice, without any apparent reason, the wind changes to the west in the Gulf, and brings western waves during the afternoon that cause a small chop but no roll.

Every Saturday morning, Jean-Marc brings boaters to the Cariaco Village market for provisioning, a 20 kilometer trip. Stops for fresh vegetables, quality meats and the internet café are scheduled. On the route taxis called porpuestos, we also went to Carúpano for a first class doctor's visit. When the crowd is big enough, Jean-Marc organizes a barbecue. Boaters are allowed to arrange their own pot lucks on Wednesday nights. We met boaters who had stayed there over a month.

The Guaracho Cave
To make this excursion, take the porpuesto that leaves at around 7AM from the village of El Muelle, located at the end of the Gulf. It's a one and one-half hour trip across wonderful mountain scenery, with many typical spreading villages. This trip is worth the entire tour. "Guaracho" is the name of a bird that spends all day in a cave and goes out at night to eat fruit. There are 14,000 guarachos in the cave that is located just a few kilometers from the town of Caripe.

The Guaracho Cave is just one of a network of the biggest caves in the Americas. There are well organized sidewalks for a distance of over 1200 meters, where you can walk for an hour and a half. At the beginning are a reception office and a museum. Because the cave must be kept dark for the guarachos, the guide (obligatory for everyone) brings with him or her a propane lamp. The first surprise is the noise of the calls of thousands of guarachos that are flying near the ceiling of the cave like bats.

There is no danger at all and we quickly become comfortable. The cave is millions of years old and there are many stalagmites and stalactites that still drip. The guide had fun naming the many shadows caused by the rocks' silhouettes. The ground is full of peanut shells brought by the birds. A very small stream holds tiny fish. Small crabs and insects live here in the dark. The low-power lamps of the guides give sufficient light for some small, skinny plants to grow. Fossils appear on walls. This visit takes you back to a very ancient period.

The Red Ibis and the Boca del Rio
At the anchorage of El Muelle, around five o'clock is the nightly arrival time for the thousands of Red Ibis, a beautiful bird. And a bird-watching dinghy ride to the small Boca del Rio, at the end of the Gulf, will be enjoyed by everybody.

Pirogues to the Orinoco Delta
There is an excursion that we expect to do next time. One can visit the deltas of the Orinoco aboard pirogues with Indian guides. With enough people, a hotel keeper in the village of San Juan de Goldones village will arrange the trip. This village is located on the Paria peninsula between Ensenada Medina and Cabo San Francisco. (Editor's note: It is currently recommended that yachts avoid the area between Ensenada Medina and Cabo Tres Puntas, after an armed boarding there in January.] From there, you cross the Peninsula by porpuesto (two hours) to reach the Gulf of Paria, where the guides are waiting. A jungle expedition with crocodiles, parrots, monkeys and snakes is on the schedule. During your absence of three or four days, the boat is safe at the Medregal-Village Hotel.

OVERVIEW OF ANCHORAGES
Chris Doyle and Jeff Fisher give good descriptions and charts of these anchorages in their guide to Venezuela. It is 35 nautical miles between Merito and El Muelle, the villages at each end of this area., and you can sail north-south and south-north, zig-zagging from one end to the other.

NORTH COAST
Merito (10.34.7N-64.08W) There is a small school of tourism here, managed by nuns, and the students speak English. They will be honored by your presence and will offer you a coffee and a visit to the small fishing village. This anchorage is not well protected, so it is better to visit in the morning before the strong afternoon winds, then go on to Puerto Real, a mile away.
Puerto Real (10.33.8N-64.07.6W) This is a well protected anchorage, 10 to 16 feet (3 to 5m) deep. There is a picturesque small fishing village with a windy basketball court.

Laguna Chica (10.34N-64.04.06W) The name means small lake. It has good shelter and good holding. There are many places to anchor. Its inhabitants, peñero (fishingboat) builders, will be proud to explain to you the advantages of different techniques.

Laguna Grande (10.34.5N-64.03W) This really is one of the best anchorages in the Caribbean. The scenery is breathtakingly unique, with many bays well protected from all directions, and you anchor in 15 to 25 feet (5 to 8m) of water.

Langoleta This is the windiest baseball diamond in the world, and the inhabitants will offer to play baseball against you. It's the main settlement of Laguna Chica.

Juanacuna (10.34.7N-64.00W) This small bay is the home of the Cangrejo Yacht Club. Anchor in 10 to 15 feet (3 to 5m) of water. There are a friendly bar, restaurant and rooms for rent.

Los Platitos (10.34.5N-63.59.6W) Located next to Juanacuna, this pleasant anchorage has snorkeling around a small island. It looks like a beautiful underwater flower garden.

El Cedro is the "end of end world" village. There is no water available, and the only electricity is from small generators and solar panels.

Los Cachicatos (10.33N-53.48.5W) This is the fiesta village, where half of the houses are for holidays. Enjoy its special atmosphere and do not miss the Virgin's feast days in September. You will find old-fashioned fishermen and craftsmen, and a small market. There is a restaurant and bar where Saturday nights are very lively. The anchorage is good.

Medregal-Village Hotel (10.32N-63.48W) Between Los Cachicatos and Guacarapo, you will find several sailboats in a good-holding anchorage in front of the Medregal-Village Hotel.

Guacarapo (10.29.7N-63.48.5W) At this fishing village begins the more developed area of the bay, with paved roads, local public phones, and water. There is a small grocery, and there are taxis or porpuestos to Cariaco.

Chiguana Almost at the bottom of the Gulf, this is a good place to leave the boat and visit the small river, Boca del Rio, and its birds, especially the Red Ibis at sunset (see El Muelle de Cariaco below).

SOUTH COAST
On the south coast of the Gulf of Cariaco, the lee side, it's harder to find good anchorages because of the constant waves and the deep underwater wall in front of the mountains. However, the following anchorages are good.

El Muelle de Cariaco 10.28.50N- 63.40.5W) It is an interesting place because it is close to the end of the Gulf and the Boca del Rio bird habitat. You anchor in 15 feet (5 m). The population of this small fishing village is friendly and welcoming. It is the departure terminal for the communal taxis (porpuestos) that visit the Guaracho Cave, and you can leave your boat anchored here without a problem. There is a small grocery, a bar, a small restaurant, and a pharmacy.  There is a good dinghy dock, but you should put out a stern anchor to keep the dinghy away from children who play on the dock.

Pericantal (10.27.6n-63.45.5W) This is a quiet, small anchorage, well protected, and on a beach. You anchor in 16 to 25 feet (5 to 8m) of water, and it is very relaxing.

Cachamaure (10.26.7N-63.49.2W) This is a large, well protected anchorage with 30 to 35 foot (9-11m) depths. There are palm and banana trees and fishermen's houses on a pretty beach. The fishermen may ask you to move if you are in the way of their work. This anchorage is close to San Antonio city.

Mariguitar (10.27.3N-63.54.5W) There are palm trees on a beach, and you anchor in 30 feet (10m) of water. You will be in front of Maguilida Club Hotel and close to the road. On the other side of the peninsula is a  small village with a mini-market every morning. There are also boutiques and internet access.

Cumaná (10.28.9N-64.11.2W) This is the first town founded in South America and the capital of the state. Anchoring near the city is not recommended, but there is  a safe marina, Cumanagoto, currently under reconstruction. It will have a large and luxurious commercial center where you will find services such as doctors, dentists and an internet café. The Navimca shipyard, well-known for its prices, is here also.

We hope that this information will permit you to discover and appreciate as we did the magnificent Golfo De Cariaco in Venezuela. For more information, try www.el-golfo.net.

Diane St.-Hilaire and Claude Bérubé are cruising the Caribbean aboard S/Y Picasso.
 

 
by Michael Rosner

Puerto Cabello
One morning in December 2005, we departed Aves de Sotovento at 1500 hours aboard Panda, our 41-foot Morgan Out Island, sailing south-southwest, arriving at Puerto Cabello at around 0900 the next day.

Taking a slip at Marina Puerto Cabello is preferred, as anchoring out is not a recommended practice due to problem swimmers from the nearby city beach. Dockage fees at the marina were about US$6.50 a night for our boat, including electricity. All vessels must Med moor, but there is usually ample help to assist with your lines after contacting the marina staff on VHF 71.

As you enter the water between the floating docks, drop your hook as far out as permitted, using an all-chain rode if possible. We usually set a second anchor with the dinghy after we get settled, as the bottom between the docks offers very poor holding. Protect your lines well against chafe as the surge, though not uncomfortable, can part them in a day. The resident vessels have chain around the cleats, a thimble in the line, and a shackle joining them together.

Sr. Carlos Alvarez is the Commodore of the marina and can help with most needs, including clearing in if necessary, where to change money and where to buy boat-specific items. The fuel dock has been closed for at least two years, but diesel can be pumped onto your boat by a local crew at the marina and gasoline can also be obtained from these workers. We paid about 35 cents a gallon for diesel, taking on 70 gallons and using it during this voyage east, without any problems. The e-mail address for the marina is: marinaptc@cantv.net.
An excellent map of the city exists in Doyle's cruising guide so take a little time to look it over before you set out to explore this old city. This was our second trip to Puerto Cabello and we stayed a full week to enjoy the convenient shopping for provisions in the city and the reasonably priced, quality dining along the restored Paseo El Malecon, located just north of the marina gates.

A short ride by taxi will get you to the San Diego Super Mercado. This is a very up-scale place to shop for food and rivals any store we have seen in the States or in Venezuela.

I should note that Panda did have a current Cruising Permit for Venezuela during our entire trip and we did check in with the Harbor Master in Puerto Cabello, receiving a zarpe prior our departure east. We dealt with the Port officials by ourselves and paid no fees. If you choose to do this you will need three photocopies of each of the following documents: Cruising Permit (both sides), vessel documentation, crew list, face sheet of passport and a copy of the most recent Immigration stamp. A set of copies must be given to the marina and another complete set will be needed when you check out and request a zarpe. A store that makes inexpensive copies is located on the east side of the Malecon, along the street that leads to the Port Authority building.

I would like to acknowledge Sr. Alvarez for his hospitality and for explaining the procedure and documents required by the local Customs officials for clearance.

Ensa Cata
Ensa Cata is the first overnight anchorage east of Puerto Cabello, an easy 17-mile trip past a very nice island called Isla Larga. If you depart early enough from the marina you have plenty of time to spend a few hours in the anchorage scrubbing your prop and bottom to prep your vessel for the trip ahead. Refer to the guidebook for further details.

When you approach the entrance to Ensa Cata, the swells can really make themselves known as they move under your keel. At this point you may start to wonder if this anchorage will even be tenable, but head in for the large high-rise building and then round up behind the rocky island and reef to the east. You will eventually find yourself in 15 to 20 feet of relatively calm water over a sand bottom. The local fishermen stretch a net across this area during the night, so note where their two primitive floats are and anchor southeast of that line. We had a fair night there with a short interval roll as the seas from the day slowly died out.

Caraballeda
Caraballeda is about 55 miles to the east and you should leave Ensa Cata at first light, since the waves from the sea breeze later in the day can really slow your progress. Panda stayed within one-and-a-half nautical miles of the coast and picked up an east-setting current of half a knot.

We were in more than 800 feet of water at times and caught six small (three to four pounds) blackfin tuna on our three trolled lines with yellow skirts.

The amount of commercial shipping will increase as you approach the La Guaira area, as it is the major port for Caracas, so stay alert. Frequently, ships will be anchored in an area two miles north of the coast, waiting for their tugs and pilot.

Soon after you pass La Guaira you will see the two steel towers that are located at Caraballeda. After passing south of the breakwater, we anchored off the beach near a large hotel and had no difficulties throughout the night.

The little channel leading back along the radio tower (as shown in the guidebook harbor chart), is the route to a small area which contains a large number of local fishing boats. Many of these vessels depart as the sun is setting, so don't anchor directly in their path and do use a reliable anchor light.

If you are not checked in to Venezuela, do not visit the marina or go ashore. We have had direct reports from sailors who did just that and they were given four hours by the Harbor Master to leave and find another location for the night. The marina is currently closed to any transient traffic and is patrolled by the military. Fellow cruisers who also utilize this route have reported that one can hail the local fishing boats and they might assist you in obtaining fuel.

Carenero
It is a 45-mile trip east to Cabo Codera and then another hour to Carenero. We traveled within a mile-and-a-half of shore, but still encountered a west setting current of 0.5 to 0.8 knots. Again, stout hand-lines were trolled with yellow skirts, this time producing a number of hook-ups with Little Tunnies, of which we kept two fish that would not have survived if released.

As we approached Cabo Codera there was a lot of flotsam, some of which was actually trees, so maintain an active watch until you round the Cape. The red and green lit cans for the channel into Carenero were on station when we approached and entering the harbor is straightforward. The waypoint in the guide for the outer mark is quite accurate and can be used with reasonable confidence.

We anchored in the small cove at the end of the channel near the mangroves, but moved the next evening, as a slight surge began to work its way into the cove. For enhanced security it is probably best to anchor as close to the marina as possible, as there are guards on the docks 24 hours a day. We stayed in Carenero for a number of days, but as it rained constantly we did not visit ashore or go out exploring. Friends of ours recently said that they easily jerry-jugged diesel from the fuel dock.

The Run to Puerto La Cruz
We left Carenero at 1700 for the 90-mile run to Puerto La Cruz. You cannot accurately judge the weather from inside the well-sheltered harbor at Carenero, so gather proper weather data before you leave. Be very alert sailing this entire area at night, as there are many fishing boats and some of the smaller vessels only turn on their anchor lights when they see your running lights.

We chose not to anchor by Isla de Piritu in the morning, due to a recent boarding incident, and headed for a waypoint south of Los Borrachitos. There were no less than 15 tankers at anchor as we neared our destination, so keep a sharp eye for any that are getting underway.

Once you round El Morro, the current and the wind waves decrease and the city of Puerto La Cruz comes into view on the mainland. An easily seen landmark just to the west of the entrance behind the breakwater is the tall brown and white spire by the Caribbean Mall. As you get closer to shore you should see the red and green cans marking the channel to the east.

We hope this route east is helpful to our fellow cruisers and encourages them to enjoy the beauty, solitude and unique qualities that can be experienced among the ABCs and the offshore islands of Venezuela.

Michael and Edie Rosner, along with Bella the Boat Dog, are currently cruising the Southern Caribbean aboard their Morgan 41 Out Island, Panda.