Cruising the Coast of Colombia
 

by Lourae and Randy Kenoffel

We, Lourae and Randy Kenoffel on Pizazz, are pleased to provide this "guide", a collection of our personal experiences, to fill in the blanks between Bonaire and Panama. If you are going east from Panama, just reverse the sequence. Please refer to Doyle and Fisher's Guide to Venezuela & Bonaire, as well as the new (March 2006) Cruising Guide to the ABC Islands by Waterson/van der Reijden; and refer to Zydler's Guide to Panama.

The information that follows is our personal opinion only. We provide the essentials of cruising; that means "where to find what you need when you are in new places". The information is sorted by category and we will give you data by location.
Pizazz, a Beneteau 500, has day-sailed along the Colombia coast four times: twice going west (in November 1997 and October 2000) and twice doing the impossible by going east (in early May 1999 and October 2005).

Four trips have given us experience BUT we do not claim to be experts. Some people say "you shouldn't stop along that coast", including some guides that say your chances of survival aren't good. However, we believe there are more risks off-shore to your boat or your crew. This guide describes safe anchorages to rest and enjoy, wait for weather, and make repairs, if needed. You will see some beautiful spots along the coast and meet some very friendly people, or you can by-pass all the wonderful anchorages and go direct to Cartagena or the San Blas Islands. You make your choice.

Notes Of Caution (a.k.a. "CYA")
All GPS readings vary slightly depending upon your equipment and selective availability of satellites, as well as input error. The GPS waypoints given are listed in degrees and minutes with hundredths of minutes (not seconds). These are waypoints for places to head towards or near anchor spots; they are not designed for you to connect-the-dots (do not go from waypoint to waypoint without checking your charts). People, USE YOUR CHARTS AND USE YOUR EYES!

Here are a few important factors to remember. One, be realistic and do not set a schedule that you cannot meet. Second, watch for the right weather windows (see WEATHER section below). Third, PREPARE YOUR BOAT AND YOURSELF for downwind sailing in heavy seas - tacking downwind is easier on the rig; it helps prevent accidental gybes, broken booms and poles; and is often faster and more comfortable. Be careful.

Going east will be primarily a motor sail.

Weather
The key to cruising the Colombia coast safely and comfortably is weather. This is especially important if you plan an off-shore passage but is also important for coastal cruising.

The entire Caribbean has two seasons: Wet Season is June through November; Dry Season is December through May. If you travel in the months between the seasons - late March through early June or late September through November - you are likely to have calmer conditions. Our four passages have been completed during the so-called "change of seasons".

Generally, the farther south you go, the lighter the winds. These 400 miles between Aruba and Cartagena are known for the worst weather conditions in the Caribbean and among the top five worst passages around the world. Over the years, sea captains have learned that this Colombia coast is prone to strong winds and abnormally large waves. Look at the Pilot charts for each month and you will easily see the few times when the conditions are calmer. So plan ahead and watch for calm predictions; and, always add a minimum of five knots to any forecasted weather.

The "weather gurus" almost always say to stay at least 200 miles off-shore (they base this not on weather but upon a fear of the coast). We have found that the conditions off-shore can be bad, resulting in stories of boats getting pooped, having torn sails and scared crews. By staying close to shore (within five to ten miles, or closer) you may experience some land effect on the weather, often beneficial for your cruising; at times it is possible to use the currents and counter-currents; and, as mentioned above, you can always stop for needed rest or repairs (not an option on an off-shore passage).

Anchorages
 

Here is a list of various anchorages along this route - all are pleasant, some are excellent, others are just a rest stop. Last month we looked at anchorages from Bonaire to Cabo de la Vela.

Check your pilot charts for currents. You will experience about a one-plus knot west-flowing current until you get to the Colombia coast. At times, you may see a 1/2 knot east-flowing current along the coast to Cartagena (great for those heading east). Beyond Cartagena, depending upon the time of year, there can be a slight west-flowing current but most times it is an east-flowing current.

There is some great fishing along the entire route, so put your lines out.

When at anchor, use your anchor light.

• FIVE BAYS
  As you head to the next waypoint at 11.22.00N, 074.03.50W, sail downwind as comfortably as possible - again, tacking downwind is suggested. You may experience some counter-current along this stretch (good for those going east). There are no obstructions along the coast (just an oil rig near Riohacha).

Look for the snow covered mountains as you approach - the only time you'll see snow while sailing in the Caribbean. These bays have been compared to the fjords of Norway. You can spot the various bays (easy eyeball navigation) as you get close to the area.

This waypoint gets you to the northeast of Bahia Cinto, the first of five wonderful little bays. There is good holding in 30-plus feet of clear water. If there is a northerly swell, Bahia Cinto can get rolly and you can get some very strong southeasterly williwaw winds off the Santa Marta Mountains.

Two bays to the West is Bahia Guayraca (at 074.07.00W longitude) with more swell protection. There is about 25 feet of water with good holding in good sand, shore exploration with friendly people, and good snorkeling; this is our favorite spot.
The fifth bay is Ancon Chica, which has the most protection from swell, deeper water, and more shoreside activities (however, some cruisers have been told "You do not want to stay here" - a hint of drug smuggling, perhaps?).

These bays are on DMA chart 24493A (which is no longer available). Please refer to our chart of these bays, which is a tracing of the DMA chart. Stay as long as you want in any bay where you feel comfortable.

• RODADERO
  When you are ready to move on to civilization (about 15 miles away), go through the cut between mainland and Aguja Island. Go between the south jagged tip of the island and the exposed rocks in the middle between the mainland and the island. It is 45 or more feet deep at 11.18.46N, 074.11.60W. The current and waves from the east may seem scary but once in the middle and then to the west of the cut, it is flat calm.
  Continue south along the coast past the commercial port of Santa Marta (it's okay to go between Morro Grande and El Morro Chico) to Rodadero (which shows as Gaira on charts). Suddenly there are tall buildings, condos, and beaches (almost a small version of Puerto La Cruz); this is a resort area for Colombians.

Anchor at 11.12.10N, 074.13.75W in 30 to 40 feet, or go in closer to the swim buoys in 20 feet. There are good restaurants along the beach and an Olympica supermarket for fresh supplies.

Sometimes the Port Captain will come by and limit your stay but otherwise, no problems. The agent here wants US$100 to clear Customs and Immigration but you still have to pay $60 to an agent in Cartagena to do it again or even get your zarpe later. So, save your money and do your clearance in Cartagena. You may also get a visit from the Guarda Costa, just to check on you.

It is good to see civilization again, but get prepared for the dreaded Rio Magdalena.

• PUNTA HERMOSA
  Rodadero is an easy spot to enter or exit in the dark. You may want to leave at "oh dark-thirty" to cross the Rio Magdalena (about 40 miles away) in early morning or before mid-day when the winds get stronger. The winds kick up the seas against the outgoing river current, mostly the last five or so miles east of the river mouth. This area can be very rough in strong winds. It is okay to stay in close to the river mouth (we were two miles out) but farther out is a little less rough. The conditions get smoother once you cross the outflow of the river.
  
  Watch for river debris - anything from lily pads to logs - for the next ten or more miles to the west. The water is muddy, smells "earthy", and looks ugly.
  
  NEVER, NEVER go into the entrance of the Rio Magdalena to the port of Baranquilla. People get robbed there, shot at, etcetera. DO NOT go there!
  
  There is a good rest stop near Punta Hermosa (another 10 miles along) which the charts do not show at all. We have been there and it is easy to get to with waypoints but USE YOUR EYES. Charts of this area show many shipwrecks and the water depths change (due to outflow from the Rio Magdalena) ­ so BE CAREFUL!
  
  Head well to the west (probably eight to ten miles) before heading to the southwest or south towards a waypoint at 10.58.00N, 075.03.10W (about one mile due west of the lighthouse), then go to 10.56.20N, 075.03.00 (30 feet deep), then turn towards the red cliff with a big house on the upper left, then go to 10.56.98N, 075.01.98W (12 feet deep).
  
  You can anchor farther north behind reef/land if you want, but you are out of the swell almost as soon as you reach the south reef edge. See our sketch chart of this area. Enjoy the calm and the friendly people. This area is packed with people on the week-ends. The locals have renamed this area "Puerto Velero" (after all the sailboats that stop there). You are now only 50 miles from Cartagena.
  
  NOTE: Be very careful navigating in this area. One sailboat was lost on the reef in 2002 because the crew was not watching where he was going.
   
• CARTAGENA
  Leave the anchorage and go west southwest towards Zamba Bank (it is okay to go over this 30-foot bank) then towards Punta Canoas then to Boca Grande entrance to Cartagena Bay (which saves you about two hours rather than using the Boca Chica entrance). You will usually experience a slight counter-current and less wind along this stretch. You will be in 20 feet of water during the last several miles, until you get outside Boca Grande.

Use waypoint 10.23.45N, 075.34.47W, which is approximately 100 yards from the entrance, and you will easily spot the entrance markers for an 11-foot depth over the underwater wall. NOTE: This entrance is marked by lighted buoys, so you can enter in the dark.

Check your chart and, staying out away from the hotel beaches, head toward a monument to the Madonna and Child (which is not lit). Follow red-right-returning buoys on either side of the monument and you will see Club Nautico with anchored boats. The buoys can be confusing around this monument, so be careful.

If you do not like the 11-foot depth entrance at Boca Grande, go on to the Boca Chica main shipping channel entrance and follow the channel markers. NOTE: There are many more buoys than those shown on the charts, however the basic bearings are the same. (The easiest route after you enter the channel is to follow the green buoys towards the monument.)

NOTE: Do not anchor near Boca Chica entrance; you will be robbed. Also, you should contact "Cartagena Port Control" on VHF 16 to give them your intentions.

You can anchor south, west, or north of Club Náutico in filthy, sticky, smelly mud. (We seriously considered abandoning our anchor here, rather than spend the time and effort to clean it!) The depths vary from eight or 12 feet to over 40 feet. Make sure that your anchor is well set. We usually let the anchor sink into the mud for an hour or so and then back down to set it.

During the dry season, the winds are normally northeast at ten to 20 knots. During the wet season, the winds are light from the south-southwest, but watch for squalls containing 30-plus knots which generate a three- to four-foot wind chop for the ten mile fetch down the Bay.

There is plenty of local water taxi traffic going through the anchorage; be careful when you dinghy into the marina area.

Club Náutico offers med-moor space, when available. Club de Pesca is a more upscale (and expensive) marina, which offers some limited transient space.

• ISLAS ROSARIOS
  This group of islands is about 18 miles from Cartagena. Use them as a "get away" from Cartagena in between the fun times and/or work. Go there to clean the boat bottom, as the barnacles grow fast and big in the "hot" waters of Bahia Cartagena. Buy the Kit Kapp's chart from Club Náutico as it is the only detailed chart for this area; you will need it.
  Use a waypoint of 10.11.18N, 075.44.45W, where you will spot a "guard tower" on shore and several cement posts to the south of the reefs. Get there around noon for good light. Leave the first post (with red paint on it) to your starboard and turn right towards two more cement posts (painted red and green) which you go between. Then swing left.
  
  Anchor anywhere along the shore in 15 to 20 feet of water. Our favorite is the farthest "cove" to the east, away from another cement post.
  
  Use your dinghy to explore other areas, including a good aquarium at the west end of the island group. There will be lots of local boat traffic, mostly on Sundays.
   
• SAN BERNARDOS
  This island group is 25 miles south of Rosarios. Anchor to the south of Isla Tintipan. You can exit this island group to the south through a cut in the reef at 09.43.45N & 075.50.19W in 20 feet of water. And, if approaching from the west, you could anchor west of the island with the lighthouse.
   
• ISLA FUERTE
  This island is off the path of many cruisers, so if you visit you will find that the people are very nice, friendly, and helpful. Two boats visited here in March 2005 and two others were there in April 2005.
  There is an anchorage east of the lighthouse, just north of the dive center, at approximately 09.23.13N & 076.10.48W - watch your depth. The island population is geared for week-end visitors and everyone wants to be your guide, whether for an anchor spot or island tour.
  There is another anchorage south of the island at about 09.22.26N, 075.41.98W, but watch the weather, as this would be untenable with south winds.
   
• ISLA TORTUGUILLA
  This small island at 09.01.45N, 076.20.25W was visited by two vessels in March 2005. They do not recommend this place as the holding is very questionable and the anchorage was rolly. As with most of the Colombia coast, the time of year and weather conditions will dictate your visit.
   
• SAN BLAS ISLANDS
  The sail from Cartagena to the San Blas is generally a fast passage with winds at your back quarter, so time your passage carefully for daylight arrival. Follow the instructions in the green Zydler guide and only enter the San Blas at one of the three entrance channels. There are many uncharted reefs off-shore making other entrances dangerous without local knowledge.
  
   

Here is a list of various anchorages along this route - all are pleasant, some are excellent, others are just a rest stop. Check your pilot charts for currents. You will experience about a 1+ knot west-flowing current until you get to the Colombia coast. At times, you may see 1/2 knot east-flowing current along the coast to Cartagena (great for those heading east). Beyond Cartagena, depending upon the time of year, there can be a slight west-flowing current but most times it is an east-flowing current.

There is some great fishing along the entire route, so put your lines out.

When at anchor, use your anchor light.

• BONAIRE
  You cannot anchor in Bonaire, as the entire island is a marine park. Respect their guidelines and save the reefs. Moorings are available for rent; contact Harbour Village Marina on VHF 17. The moorings are "first-come, first-served". Make reservations if you plan to stay in the marina, particularly during the busy season of August through October.
   
• CURAÇAO
  The trip between Bonaire and Curaçao (approximately 35 miles) can be a nice downwind sail going west or a good beat to windward going east. Like Bonaire, the Curaçao coast is very deep close to shore. You can sail close to the southern tip or stop for a visit at Klein Curaçao.
  
  The primary "cruiser" anchorage is in Spanish Water, which is a large, almost land-locked, lagoon. To enter Spanish Water, approaching from the southeast, stay close to the beach (estimated position 12.03.50N & 068.51.00W) which is still 90 feet deep and you will easily see the shallow reef edge to the northwest; then zigzag through the channel. This channel is not lit or marked so you must arrive in good light and well before sundown.
  
  When you are ready to depart, take a sail along Curaçao's west coast; the water is deep close-in, the current is favorable, and there's great sightseeing - interesting cliffs, big fancy homes, and pretty beaches.
  
  We have gone to Santa Kruz Baai at 12.18.55N & 069.08.77W, which is about 25 miles northwest of Spanish Water, an easy day-sail. You anchor in 10 to 12 feet of sand and coral at the mouth of the bay (avoid coral patches); it's a great area for snorkeling along the cliffs and an easy place to depart from in the dark. This anchorage provides protection only from the east so be careful using this spot when there is a chance of wind reversals.
  
  Aruba is now only 45 miles away, with wind and current behind you.
  
  There are also several other areas on Curaçao's northwest coast that are pleasant stops, including Santa Marta (unsurveyed on the chart but 11 feet deep at entrance and mostly 10 feet or more on into the bay; a very nice and interesting place, the dive shop people are great and offer good food at their restaurant). Knip Baai and Westpunt are two other potential anchorages.
  
  The island of Curaçao runs southeast to northwest with wind and current running primarily northwest. Those coming from Aruba should head for the northwest point of the island, spend a night or two or more before beating against the wind and current to get to Spanish Water.
  
  Another note for those going east: go around the north end of Aruba. This may not sound right, but you will spend less time bucking headwinds and current than you will if you motor or sail along the lee side of Aruba before trying for Curaçao.
   
• ARUBA
  There are several anchorages along the lee coast. Just like Curaçao, the island of Aruba runs southeast to northwest with strong northwest-flowing current. The island also generates its own wind (the trade winds get heated by the land) so prepare for stronger winds the farther northwest up the coast.
  
  The first anchorage at the southeast end is Rogers Beach, just south of the refinery in Sint Nicolas Baai. Enter between the buoys at 12.25.34N & 069.53.96W (BEWARE! GREEN buoy is on STARBOARD), head 090 magnetic to the next green buoy at 12.25.38N & 069.53.51W, then head 115 magnetic to anchor wherever you wish in 10 to 12 feet in sand and grass. This can be a little rolly in southeast winds and eerie at night with the lights and flames of the refinery (but you are upwind of the smoke and smells).
  
  As you sail up this coast, watch for stronger winds coming off-shore.
  
  Oranjestad harbor is well lit after nightfall. An approach waypoint from the southeast is 12.3.50N & 070.02.50W; watch for the red buoys on your right. (If entering the harbor from the northwest, GREEN on STARBOARD). See notes below under CUSTOMS.
  
  After clearing in, go anchor. The airport anchorage is 12 to 16 feet deep either northwest of the runway or into the lagoon south of the runway. There is good holding sand and it is close to downtown, but noisy.
  
  The alternative anchorage is about three miles north of Oranjestad near the high-rise hotels. Go to the unlit white float at 12.34.87N & 070.03.34W; leave the buoy well to your port and head approximately 090 magnetic course-over-ground towards the Marriott Hotel/Condos (the left two buildings along this stretch). Do not let the wind/current set you north. You anchor in 7 to 8 feet in sand and grass. This is away from downtown shopping but has lots of beach sports and access to hotel services - casinos, expensive shops, and expensive restaurants. There is easy access to buses ($2 round trip) to downtown for anything you need. After all this civilization, you are ready for some out-of-way coastal cruising.
  
  Another reminder - refer to the March 2006 Cruising Guide to the ABC Islands for up-to-date information about all of the above mentioned anchorages as well as many others.
   
• PUNTA MACOLLA
  We mention this anchorage primarily for those going east. This open roadstead anchorage is located on the northwest side of Venezuela's Peninsula de Paraguana - approximately 30 miles south-southwest of Aruba and 40+ miles southeast of Monjes del Sur. You can anchor as close in as you feel comfortable to get some relief from the west-flowing current and easterly head winds (similar to Cabo de la Vela). It is a good rest stop before heading north to Aruba or east to Curaçao.
   
• MONJES DEL SUR
  The next stop is about 53 miles downwind from Aruba. A waypoint just to the northeast of the island is 12.21.75N & 070.52.75W. (For those heading east, a good waypoint to the west of the anchorage is 12.21.65N & 070.55.00W) Charts show the southern two islands as separate; however, the two islands have been joined together by a large rock dam. This "rock" (there is nothing growing on this island) is part of Venezuela, so get your courtesy flag out and call the Guarda Costa on VHF 16 for permission to anchor; "no problem" is the answer. In fact, they will probably contact you (when you are 15 or 20 miles out) to ask you to identify yourself and your intentions.
  
  The anchorage to the left of center is 65+ feet deep facing the rock dam in front of you. There's a huge dock with tires which maybe you can tie to; ask. In 2000 they added a rope (1-1/2 inch 3-strand) between the dock and their center-peninsula headquarters (which has a green light on it and a loud generator). The Navy prefers that you tie to the rope (there is room for about six boats along this rope and we heard about a fishing tournament when there were 36 boats on the rope). It's a very odd tie-up situation but it works as the winds are almost always from the east. If the winds are anywhere from north to west to south, this is an untenable anchorage.
  
  This is a good rest stop; we stayed a few days with fabulous snorkeling all around the "rock" (crowds of barracuda and large lobsters) and it is a wonderful hike to the lighthouse for a fantastic view. The guys stationed here are extremely friendly, polite, and professional and they love to have visitors and to share stories. They will want to see your passports and boat papers for their log book and to serve you a cold drink. This is also a very easy departure point in the dark which you will do as the next leg is 80 miles to the west (or Aruba is over 50 miles east).
  
  See our sketch chart for this anchorage.
  
  A suggestion - take a plant with you to add some green to this rock.
   
• CABO DE LA VELA
  The next waypoint is 45 miles to Punta Gallinas at 12.28.80N & 071.40.00W in 50 feet of water about two miles off-shore. It is usually not rough as you are going downwind with favorable current. (But for those going east, this will be your toughest beat into the strong current.) Bahia Honda (another 12 miles from Gallinas - at approximately 12.24.00N & 071.49.00W) is a possible stop but not recommended because there are no charts showing any depths; however in October 2001 several boats stopped and had no problems; and an east-bound vessel stopped here in July 2002 to wait for better weather.

You can possibly stop at the commercial coaling port in Bahia Portete - call the Port Captain on VHF 16 for permission. Enter through the marked channel then anchor to the east of buoy 9A in 12 to 17 feet of water at 12.15.53N & 71.57.19W.

Ideally, you should continue on to Cabo de la Vela to a waypoint 12.14.00N & 072.10.00W to view the anchorage. There is a small island to go around, or it is 15 feet deep between coast and island, to get to an anchor waypoint of 12.12.27N & 072.10.69W in 20 feet with good holding in sand. This is an open bay with plenty of wind (Cabo de la Vela means Cape Sail) but you are out of the swell and it is a good comfortable anchorage even with the wind blowing strong from the east.

If the winds are strong from the southeast, you will get wind chop and you might want to move 1.5 miles to the southeast, closer to the village (although the holding is only fair to poor). Also, if the winds are from the north or west or south, this anchorage will be untenable.

No one will bother you, although fishermen will come by to stare at your big sailboat. And, the fishermen do put out nets at night. You may even see some tourists hiking to the light tower or around the wind generators; and there may be sheep searching for shrubs.

Relax and rest up as the next leg is 120 miles. We left in the late afternoon and arrived at the next anchorage before noon the next day.
 

Customs & Immigration

• BONAIRE
  The Customs building is on the waterfront; it is the blue-green building south of Karel's Bar and the Venezuelan fruit/veggy stand. The officials are very friendly and helpful. Ask for directions to Immigration (in September 2000 they were located above the cinema). No costs. For clearing out, go to Immigration first, then Customs. Your zarpe to wherever will cost you 25 florin (14 cents US).
   
• CURAÇAO
  Although everything in Bonaire is within walking distance, this is not so in Curaçao. From Spanish Waters, the main anchorage for cruisers, it's a 20-minute bus ride to Wilhemsted. You catch the bus (ask at Sarifundy's for a schedule) outside the fishermen's marina or outside Kee's Place. Cost in September 2000 was 1.50naf (US$1). From the bus station in town, walk along the river edge to the north; the Customs building is on the corner past all the Venezuelan veggy boats.
  As in Bonaire, the officials are very friendly and helpful. Easy paperwork; no cost. Ask them for directions to Immigration as they move occasionally. Immigration will ask you for your intended length of stay (90 days maximum); at times, they may ask you to go to Post Office after the first 14 days to get an extension. For clearing out, go to Customs and then Immigration. No cost. We suggest clearing for Cartagena, whether you intend to go to Aruba or not.
   
• ARUBA
  This is where it gets a little frustrating. The hardest part is that Aruba Port Authority (on VHF 11) requires you to tie your vessel to the dock to clear in. They will not let you anchor and go by dinghy. They know how to deal with cruiseships with lots of passengers and crew, but not cruising yachts with two crew and no passengers. The cruiseship dock has big black tires that leave smudge marks on your topsides, so use lots of fenders and try to get to the north part of the dock which is sheltered behind the terminal building. They have no one to help take your lines so have someone ready to jump to the dock with a spring line and stern line.
  
  Once you've made it to the dock, Customs and Immigration will come to you. No cost. Complete their forms or provide a crewlist. They will not stamp your passports unless you ask them to. The drawback here is that they want you to return your vessel to the dock to clear out. Again, you cannot walk into their offices to clear out. NOTE: Since they did not stamp you in (nor did they take your zarpe for Cartagena), why check out? Just leave. If you plan to stop in Aruba for one or two nights, avoid the clear in/out; it shouldn't be a problem. But, don't let the checking in/out hassle keep you from visiting this fun island. [Editor's note: As cruisers, this sounds like commonsense advice to us, but as publishers we feel obliged to say that Compass Publishing takes no responsibility for the suggestion that cruisers circumvent the law!]
   
• CARTAGENA
  Although you may cruise along the coast and stop several times for few or many days, we are not aware of any problems regarding waiting until arrival in Cartagena to clear in. Do not stop in Santa Marta commercial port. Colombia requires an agent to process papers; you cannot do this by yourself. The cost is US$60 which includes both clear in and out. "As de Guia" is an agent that has an office one long block east of Club Náutico; they are very professional, speak English, and helpful for any other assistance you may need. They will take you to Immigration for that part of the shuffle. "Manfred" is another agent that is usually around Club Náutico. Just return to your agent a day or two before departure.
   
• PANAMA
  Most cruisers desire to cruise the San Blas islands before passing through the Canal or heading to the Northwest Caribbean. When you clear out of Cartagena ask for your next port (Panama or Honduras) with puntas intermedios. We are not aware of anyone having problems with the length of time between clearing out and into the next country. Many cruisers stay in the San Blas anywhere from a few days to 3 or 4 months before clearing into next port. Porvenir, the westernmost of the San Blas islands, is an official port where you can obtain your cruising permit for US$70. However, it is not clear whether Immigration here is official or not. Some people clear in with Immigration, then fly to Panama City to fly out of the country with no problems. Yet when you enter Colon with the boat, you must clear with Customs again (no additional charge if you already have cruising permit) and with Immigration, where you need to buy the tourist visa (90 days) for US$10. In Porvenir, there is also a Kuna chief's fee, as well as an anchoring fee and a US$10 to $25 per passport charge. Our advice: avoid Porvenir, and clear into Colon whenever you get there.

Security
Check with other cruisers for current security situations. Lower your anxiety level by setting up radio contacts or buddy boats. When you are at anchor, use your anchor light, not only because the law requires that you do so, but because it is also helpful for the buddy boats in watching out for each other.

• BONAIRE
  There is the typical petty theft, and sometimes theft of dinghies. (The bulk of the problem is break-ins into rental cars.)
   
• CURAÇAO
  Spanish Waters has been a hot spot for dinghy thefts for more than two years. Raise and lock it! There have also been muggings and pickpockets in town. Be very careful with your valuables.
   
• ARUBA
  As so few vessels stay very long (although we've stayed for one or two weeks), we are not aware of problems. But when in doubt, lock it.
   
• COLOMBIAN COAST
  Cruisers are now stopping at various anchorages, but because these are secluded from populous cities, generally there have been no problems. We heard of one dinghy that was stolen in Cabo de Vela (not locked; the line was cut). The Colombian Coast Guard is "out there", they are extremely helpful, very friendly, speak some English, and tell us to call VHF 16 if we encounter any problems at all. Do not hesitate to call them - they are great.
   
• CARTAGENA
  As in all populated areas, there is petty theft. Occasionally there are dinghy thefts, so lock it and put things away. If you enter Cartagena Bay through Boca Chica (the main shipping channel), do not stop just inside the Bay although it looks like the first quiet spot (particularly if you've had a long hard passage), as here you're almost guaranteed to have a break-in or theft. You should continue to the north end of the Bay and anchor off Club Náutico.
   
• PANAMA
  The San Blas islands are generally theft free; however, there have been reports of clothing taken off lines or things disappearing from dinghies while on some islands. (Usually the takers are kids). Colon is a big city, and another story - you should have no real problems while anchored on the Flats (except the rare dinghy theft) or docked at the Panama Canal Yacht Club. But in town, be very careful at all times and always use taxi at night. Taxis cost US$1. Ask others for current crime situations.

Fuel & Water

(Diesel, gasoline/petrol, propane and water, with prices in US$ per US gallon, as of late 2000.)

You won't find cheaper prices for diesel and gas than in Venezuela, so load up! Pizazz has a watermaker, therefore we only can comment on availability, not price; and you can always catch some rain. For those with watermakers, do not make water in Cartagena (it is filthy). In Colon, there is a lot of fresh water coming out of the canal, so lower your pressure.

• BONAIRE
  Everything is available at Harbor Village Marina. Diesel $1.45; gas $3.10; propane $9.00 for a 10-pound bottle; water at the dock.
   
• CURAÇAO
  Spanish Waters is the primary anchorage. Sarifundy's can arrange for propane and there is a water hose at their dock. The Curaçao Yacht Club has a fuel dock: diesel $1.06; gas $2.45.
   
• ARUBA
  We don't have prices but diesel, gas, and water are available at SeaPort Marina. Also, if you are anchored near the hotels, you can get water at the fishermen's dock. If you have access to a car, diesel and gas can be jugged from gas stations. We do not know about propane.
   
• COLOMBIA COAST
  If there is an urgent need for fuel, call the Colombia Coast Guard on VHF 16. We also found that you can get diesel and gas in the Rodadero anchorage (just south of Santa Marta); you will have to jug from the gas station two blocks away from the small fishermen's marina.
   
• CARTAGENA
  Club Náutico is the cruiser hangout; you pay a daily fee which covers showers, water, dinghy dock, etcetera. Coordinate with other vessels (collect money and bottles) to get Fernando at Club Náutico to do a trip to purchase propane which costs $3 for a 10-pound tank or $4 for a 20-pound tank - but the taxi costs about $10, no matter if there is one bottle or 15. There are several fuel docks with diesel $.90-$1.00 and gas $1.43. Top off your fuel and propane tanks and jugs here as everything is expensive in San Blas.
   
• PANAMA
  In the San Blas Islands, diesel is available in Rio Diablo at $1.80 and gas is $3.10. Propane ($10) is available but you must rig up some sort of adapter to gravity-flow into your bottle, or else purchase a Panamanian 25-pound bottle ($75) to use with an adapter - so fill your propane bottles in Cartagena! Water comes from the sky. Most people collect rainwater if close to the coast; the outer islands get less rain. Also, fresh water can be found farther up some rivers.
  
  In Colon, go to the Panama Canal Yacht Club. You can get propane at $10 for 10 pounds, water is free, diesel $1.85, and gas from the fuel station is $1.50 (plus cab fare).
  
  Provisions
  Your provisioning will depend upon your cruising time between Trinidad and Panama. Trinidad is best for tins, dry goods, spicy foods, etcetera. Margarita, Venezuela is good place with good prices to re-stock, as the prices in the ABC islands are high (although the selection is better). The prices are reasonable in Cartagena but selection is limited. The San Blas has very limited supplies of everything. In Colon the prices and selections are excellent.
   
• BONAIRE
  There is the Cultimara market and its associated "warehouse" for selection and availability. The veggy/fruit ship arrives Thursday afternoon and most fresh stuff is gone by Monday. Also, there are a few other local markets around. And, the Venezuelan veggy stand always has the basics. Plenty of Dutch foods, particularly Dutch cheeses, and US goods.
   
• CURAÇAO
  Sarifundy's Marina provides a bus 6 days a week to various supermarkets. There is also a Cost-U-Less on the island if you have a rental car. The Venezuelan boats are northwest of the bus station, as is the local veggy market next to the bus station. Curaçao is the next best  place after Margarita or Puerto La Cruz to re-stock with most of your favorite items.
   
• ARUBA
  There are four markets just north of Orangestad, easily accessible by bus from the hotel anchorage. There is a good selection, but you pay US-plus prices (as Aruba is an "holiday island" catering to American tourists).
   
• CARTAGENA
  The convenient Magali Paris supermarket is one block from Club Náutico and a small Carulla market about a block from Club de Pesca. The Olympica store is next to Home Mart (a taxi ride). Also, market chains have locations all around town, in the Old City or in Boca Grande. Prices are good but selection is mostly limited to Colombian items or over-priced imported goods.
   
• PANAMA
  For the San Blas, you need to bring anything you normally use. Some villages have small tiendas selling rice, flour, butter, some tinned goods, and basic veggies such as potatoes, onions, cabbage and sometimes tomatoes; availability depends upon the arrival of the local veggy boat. In a few anchorages, some Kunas paddle out from their village to sell some veggies. If you need special items or have guests visiting, call Julie in Panama City (e-mail ariasjul@pananet.com) with your specific list of wants; she will buy them, box them (frozen stuff in coolers), and fly them to an island near you for you to collect. Of course, there is a cost for this - expect to pay approximately US prices plus 50 percent to cover her costs and shipping. In Colon or Panama City there are big, well stocked markets with good prices.

Liquor, Wine & Beer

We have a few specifics and some general comments. Load up in the duty-free port of Margarita, Venezuela. Prices are higher everywhere else, except Panama. Fill up the bilges! Margarita's price for beer is $7 per case; wines for $3; rum was $2; vodka for $9.

• BONAIRE
  Amstel and Heineken beer is $20 per case; wines are $7 per bottle.
   
• CURAÇAO
  About the same as Bonaire.
   
• ARUBA
  Romar Trading (two blocks behind Kong Hing market) is a distributor. We got Chilean wines by the case for $3.50/bottle; these are mostly $4.50 in markets. Beer prices were the same as Bonaire and Curaçao.
   
• CARTAGENA
  Aguila beer is $11 to $13 per case. Wines and liquors are cheaper in the "contrabando district", yet wines were $6 and vodka was $9.
   
• PANAMA
  You can buy Balboa beer in Rio Diablo for $11 per case. However, the place to re-stock all alcoholic beverages is in Colon. The markets have decent prices (the same or cheaper than Margarita) but the best prices are in the Free Zone. We have purchased a case of beer for $8, wines for $2.50; rum for $3; and vodka for $5.

Marinas / Haulout Facilities / Dinghy Docks

• BONAIRE
  Harbor Village Marina is safe with 15-plus feet of water. But beware of the mosquitoes! Plaza Resort has some slips and dock space but mostly is only 9 feet deep. The dock at Karel's Beach Bar is the main dinghy dock for getting into town. Or you can use the dock at Harbor Village Marina and walk north from there.
   
• CURAÇAO
  Curaçao is a popular place to leave your boat to travel, as there are good airline connections to almost anywhere. Seru Boca Marina has slips for storage. For haulout, contact Antillean Slipway in Willemstad for work and their associated Curaçao Boat Yard for storage on the hard. Curaçao Yacht Club is mostly for local boats. Dinghies can be tied to a dock at Sarifundy's, Kees' Place or the fishermen's marina.
   
• ARUBA
  SeaPort Marina has slips for rent. Leave your dinghy in the marina or use the fishermen's marina near the hotels.
   
• CARTAGENA
  Club Náutico has docks for about 50 boats, Med-moor style. Club de Pesca is a local club/marina which has some finger slips available for visiting cruisers. There are three haulout facilities in Cartagena. The Navy yard takes care of big boats, catamarans are lifted out by cables, and there is a 40-ton travelift at the other yards - all good facilities. Club Náutico has the dinghy dock for boats at anchor.
   
• PANAMA
  José Probe Marina, to the west of the San Blas, has moorings available for storage - make reservations. Panama Canal Yacht Club in Colón has slips and a Med-moor dock on a first-come basis; they have a railway for basic work. Balboa Yacht Club on the Pacific side has moorings (no marina) and a railway. Pedro Miguel Boat Club, within the canal, has a small marina with a crane if you want to drop your mast. When in Colon, you can anchor in the Flats and leave your dinghy at the dock in Panama Canal Yacht Club.

Marine Stores

As almost everyone knows, Trinidad is the place to have marine parts shipped in. The next places to ship parts to are Curaçao and Panama. In between, shipping in is more difficult or costly, but there are some places to buy parts locally.

• BONAIRE
  There is a marine store at Harbor Village Marina (not cheap). There is a Napa auto parts store and, if you check around town, you can find a few miscellaneous items. There are a couple of hardware-type stores.
   
• CURAÇAO
  If you look, you can find a few stores for basics, although most cruisers get things shipped in. There is a Napa store on the island.
   
• ARUBA
  Very limited selection. This is not really a cruiser hangout.
   
• CARTAGENA
  There are a few marine parts stores and an unlimited supply of auto parts (12 volt) stores. The Home Mart or ServiStar are places to visit if you need tools, garden items, household goods, lamps, etcetera. MultiElectrico (on the side street, across the street, from Home Mart) can take care of alternator repairs and parts, bulb replacements, wires, etcetera - anything electrical. Ignacio Sierra (just over the bridge from Club de Pesca on Calle Larga on the right) is the place for nuts, bolts, screws, cutlasses, plumbing pieces, etcetera; if they don't have it, they will make it. There are many cruisers in Cartagena who have been there many years; they can direct you where to go for whatever you need.

Money

• BONAIRE
  The currency here is NAf (Netherlands Antillean florin) which exchanges to 1.75 NAf per US$1. Here you can use US dollars or your credit card (with no problems) and you get change in US$ and NAf coins. The official exchange rate varies, of course, but ATM withdrawals or VISA advances from the bank give you a better rate than stores or restaurants. It's a small island with several ATMs around.
   
• CURAÇAO
  The same situation as on Bonaire. Use all of your NAfs here as there is nowhere else to the west to use them.
   
• ARUBA
  Although part of The Netherlands, Aruba is no longer associated with the Netherlands Antilles. They have their own Aruban paper and coin florins and won't accept NAfs from Bonaire or Curaçao. However, the exchange rate is the same: 1.75 per US$1. As we mentioned before, Aruba is a tourist island, so ATMs are everywhere and all those tourists use credit cards (there's been no known fraud).
   
• CARTAGENA
  The official currency is the Colombian Peso, which was over 2100 per US$1 in November 2000. Some stores take US dollars but give you a lower exchange rate; most places use 2000 per US$1. Your best deal is ATM withdrawal, and they are everywhere. If you have the time to wait in line, you can go inside the bank for VISA advances. Cruisers have used credit cards here with no bad experiences that we know of. When you are ready to leave, spend most of your pesos, but save a few for Rosarios - aquarium admission is 10,000 Ps per person (see Restaurants and Shoreside Activities, below), and locals there have fish, lobster and necklaces for sale.
   
• PANAMA
  The official currency is the US dollar, although prices get quoted as "Balboa". The paper money is US dollars, and coins are the Panamanian Balboa which are exactly the same size and value as US coins. Have lots of small denomination US dollars for the San Blas; you'll need lots of cash to buy molas. There are no ATMs, no credit card usage, no cash advances in the San Blas. However, those services are available in Colon and Panama City.

Phone / Fax / Internet / Mail

For all locations, the best bet for out-going mail is someone flying back home.

• BONAIRE
  There are phones along the waterfront and at TELBO, the phone company, that require phone cards. There is one phone inside the phone company that is an ATT direct phone. The office at Harbor Village Marina will send or receive your faxes, as will the phone company. The internet cafe is upstairs next to the karate school near Cultimara market; the cost is US$9/hour, or you can purchase weekly or monthly time. The Marina Store has a computer for access but is more expensive. Flat mail can be sent through Harbor Village Marina; use FedEx. Incoming packages will go through Rocargo and you will pay some charges, and possibly 30 percent Customs duties unless you depart immediately.
   
• CURAÇAO
  There is a phone available at Sarifundy's, one at Kees' Place and one at Seru Boca Marina. You can dial ATT and pay a minimal charge to the bartender. Get your faxes sent to Sarifundy's. There is internet access at the one computer at Sarifundy's or the two computers at Kees' Place for US$8/hour. There are several internet cafes in Willemstad at US$12/hour or only US$2/hour at the library. Cruisers either get their mail quickly or have long delays; there is no rhyme or reason why. Packages and flat mail are duty-free. We recommend FedEx.
   
• ARUBA
  Phones are very difficult unless you use a phone card. We had no success getting through to ATT and had to make a credit card call. Use the hotels or phone company for faxes. Internet cafés are located in a few shopping malls at US$15/hour. We've had no experience with mail.
   
• CARTAGENA
  There is a phone at Club Náutico with direct ATT access; this is on the wall at the left end of the bar. The only problem is that the electrical power to the phone is wired with the stereo at the bar, so there is lots of noise. The phone card phone is at the right of the dinghy dock. You can use the phone companies in town for phones and faxes. Club Náutico will send/receive faxes. There are several internet cafés around town; one is two blocks from Club Náutico. Cost is $3/hour. FedEx is best for flat mail to Club Náutico. If you have packages sent to you, they may never show up; apparently the Customs officials like to hold them for ransom, or they get "stuck" in Bogota.
   
• PANAMA
  Surprisingly, there are phones in most villages in the San Blas. However, there are often long lines to make calls and it is difficult to get past the busy signal. Some phones are coin, some are phone card; and you can access ATT. There are several phones at the Panama Canal Yacht Club. There are no fax machines in the San Blas but the PCYC will send/receive your faxes. The internet has not yet reached the San Blas, however there is an air-conditioned café in Colon, or the office at PCYC, for US$3/hour. You cannot get mail in the San Blas unless you make special arrangements through Julie Arias to have it flown in (for a price). In Colon, the US Postal Service International Express Mail takes 2 or 3 days to get to a nearby post office. FedEx and DHL will deliver to the yacht club. Packages can be sent to the yacht club with no duty owing as long as they are marked "yacht in transit". Great place to have all those marine parts sent in! You may pay a small delivery or Customs clearing fee.

Laundry & Garbage

Remember that you can always do laundry by hand. You should separate your garbage - paper, plastics, tins, bottles, biodegradable items.

• BONAIRE
  Harbor Village Marina office collects laundry daily before 9:30AM and it is returned the next day after 10AM; it is not cheap because the water is desalinated. You can take your laundry to the laundromat near the stadium to do yourself, but it's not much cheaper. There are some garbage bins behind the fuel dock, or take your garbage to the dinghy dock and drop it in the bins behind the Harborside Mall.
   
• CURAÇAO
  Laundry machines are available at Sarifundy's and Kees' Place for small cost. Garbage bins are behind both these places.
   
• ARUBA
  We found machines on the 7th floor of the Holiday Inn (south tower) for $1 wash and $1 dry. These are for hotel guests so act like a hotel guest. Use the garbage bins to keep the waters clean.
   
• COLOMBIA COAST
  You will have to do your own laundry here - the next machines are in Cartagena. For your garbage, when at sea (not at anchor!) you can break your bottles, punch holes in tins so they sink, and toss foodstuffs. Or, store garbage until you see proper bins.
   
• CARTAGENA
  There are some friendly ladies at Club Náutico who'll do your laundry for you - 2800 pesos for wash and 3000 pesos for dry. Club Náutico also has a garbage collection area.
   
• PANAMA
  In the San Blas, you must do your own laundry. If you need to collect water, anchor close to the mainland; it usually rains. Also, you can dinghy up some of the mainland rivers to get fresh water. Some islands have freshwater pools where you can bucket some water for laundry. If the island is inhabited, ask permission first. Take care of your own garbage; don't give it to local people for disposal, as they often just dump it in the water. Cruisers have organized "garbage burns" for their combustibles - if doing this on an inhabited island, ask permission. And anywhere, make sure everything is thoroughly burnt, the fire is really out and the ashes are well buried. In Colon, there are machines at PCYC for laundry and there is a small garbage collection area.

Restaurants and Shore Side Activities

• BONAIRE
  The scuba diving, which is spectacular, is the primary reason to stop here. If you dive, you will love it. If you snorkel, you will love it. The Marine Park has well-marked mooring buoys all along the coast and around Klein Bonaire for diving/snorkeling. These are well maintained and offer a variety of sites, all within a dinghy ride. Since most tourists here are on "dive holidays", you will pay tourist prices at the many good restaurants. There are restaurants at most of the dive resorts as well as many in town, all within walking distance. If you need a movie fix, there is a cinema but it costs US$8/person per movie. A rental car ride around the island is fun, but the island is small and the drive only takes 2 or 3 hours.
   
• CURAÇAO
  The sightseeing downtown is very nice, with lots of colorful buildings. There are some dive sites just outside Spanish Water, within dinghy distance. Farther up the west coast there are a few dive sites with moorings. Anchor up that way or rent a car and do shore dives. There is a nice Seaquarium on Curaçao, but cruisers see those fish all the time. There are cinemas in Willemstad but they are not cheap. Rent a car to see the island and do some provisioning. Sarifundy's and Kees' Place in Spanish Water have small restaurants. In town, there are many eating places ranging from fancy to McDonalds.
   
• ARUBA
  A tourist island with many expensive shops and restaurants. All the hotels have casinos. Aruba has many condo/timeshare resorts for all those tourists. Take a few hours to listen through the "sales talk" and you'll get a rental car for two days or a US$100 dinner certificate; just don't buy a timeshare. With the rental car you can see the island and do some provisioning. If you need a burger fix, choose from Wendy's, Burger King, and McDonalds. Enjoy shopping galore! There is a cinema here that is expensive.
   
• COLOMBIA COAST
  If you stop at Monjes, hike to the top for a tour of their radar station and view of "the rock". At other anchorages, walking the beach and snorkeling are the activities; these are places to relax and catch up on reading. You will find small beach restaurants in the five bays. Rodadero is a resort town with beach restaurants and water activities. Nothing else until Cartagena.
   
• CARTAGENA
  This is a great city. The Old Town (known as "Centro" to locals) is a fabulous place. The old buildings now house small shops, restaurants and museums. It is very busy during the day; people all around selling everything. Shopping is good in Cartagena; you can find almost anything you need. At night, take a taxi to see the sights and try all the wonderful restaurants. Try a tour of the city and beyond. If you'd like a mud bath, visit the volcano outside the city. Club Náutico has a small, very reasonably priced restaurant (daily specials are the best: US$1 for breakfast, $2.50 for lunch, $8 for dinner). There are many reasonably priced (US$10 for dinner; $5 for lunch) eating places within walking distance of Club Náutico. Check with other cruisers for their favorites. Some cruisers have spent three weeks in Cartagena and never cooked a meal on their boat.
   
• ISLAS ROSARIOS
  The attraction here is the clear water for swimming and snorkeling, welcome after the filthy stuff in Cartagena. The aquarium at the west end of the island group is a must-see for 10,000 pesos (US$5). Get away from the big city and enjoy. There are a few small hotels that will serve you a beer and/or a meal.
   
• ISLAS SAN BERNARDOS
  Not much here except clear clean water for great swimming and snorkeling.
   
• SAN BLAS ISLANDS
  No restaurants or activities per se, but these islands are a wonder in themselves. The Kuna villages to the east are traditional, with only some outside influence. Each village will provide you with a different experience. These people are happy and friendly. Expect visitors to your boat, primarily to sell you molas, but the fishermen sell fish, crab and lobster. If you wish to have gifts for the people, bring candy for the kids; men always appreciate extra fishing hooks, etcetera; the women can use sewing needles, fabrics and reading glasses.

Summary

Now you have all the information you need for cruising the Colombian Coast. All you need to do is pull up that anchor. This is a great area to cruise, one that is still somewhat undeveloped and off the beaten path. We strongly recommend this coastal cruise before transiting the Panama Canal or heading to the northwest Caribbean.

We encourage everyone to pass on this "guide" to others behind you. If you are located in any of the popular cruiser spots, post this on a bulletin board. We welcome e-mail messages at sy_pizazz@yahoo.com with your questions, comments or requests for copies of this guide. NOTE: We do not have e-mail on our boat but use local cyber cafés when and if we get to them.

All the best for a safe passage from Lourae and Randy on Pizazz!